"This is radical self-sabotage translated into clothing," reads JORDANLUCA's potent show notes, imbued with a sense of "existential threats like madness, annihilation and grizzly, premature death." Themes such as these informed JORDANLUCA's Spring/Summer 2023 collection, "SABOTAGE," which debuted yesterday at Milan Fashion Week to a crowd packed into an old warehouse. A soft-punk, almost theatrical rendition of Gloria Gaynor's "I Will Survive" played as models walked around the space, their outfits also tinged with a punk-esque aesthetic but softened by the subversion of tradition.
Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto's looks this season was undoubtedly the duo's strongest to date, channeling the inner dialogue of traditional menswear becoming unhinged. Suit blazers saw shoulders go above and beyond -- literally -- with the added accent of zipper hardware cutting across the broad shoulders, while short shorts were à la that Miu Miu set. Elsewhere, a red and black striped shawl covering was paired with elongated frayed, distressed denim pants that flicked out at all angles on the foot, swishing along the floor, while technical pants shape-shifted from skinny to billowing as they contrasted the spiderweb-embroidered overshirt.
"SABOTAGE" is a collection of contrasts, but ones that come together in perfect harmony. They say opposites attract, and the pairing of a black mesh floral lace top and burnt orange trousers that are perfectly fitted but blow out of proportion at the bottom, or perhaps thigh-high cracked leather lace-up boots with a sports jacket equipped with bulky hardware, each go to show Bowen and Marchetto's eye for detail. No matter which elements you choose, "SABOTAGE" is perfect of mixing and matching together, which is in itself the "radical self-sabotage" of clothing.
Yet, for those who want something more immediately wearable, fear not. A spiderweb design is cut out like a shadowy illusion from a knitted cream number, while a sporty, slinky top in black spans the gender spectrum. Jazzy '70s shirts with trippy patterns, croc leather pants, cut-up trench coats, and a tracksuit one-piece covering are some final standouts of what was unarguably JORDANLUCA's finest work.
Take a look at JORDANLUCA SS23 "SABOTAGE" above, and stay tuned to HYPEBEAST for more Milan Fashion Week coverage over the next few days.
In other news, it's rumored that Martine Rose could be taking over from Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton menswear.