Designers Luke and Lucie Meier continue to playfully reinvent the meaning of tailoring for both womenswear and menswear in Jil Sander's latest Spring/Summer 2023 runway show at Milan Fashion Week. When the duo first started with the brand in 2018, they placed both womenswear and menswear collections together but soon split the collections apart believing that each needed its own special nurturing. Now five years after their debut, the designers have recombined them, understanding that the only way to create menswear is together with women's. Despite the bit of rain that changed the setting and required the models to carry umbrellas while walking, the collection stood its own with the elegance and elongated silhouettes brought to life on the runway.
The latest collection magnifies the revival of tailoring, focusing on the easiness of monochrome suiting, loose silhouettes, neutral colors, and sculptural forms highlighted by movement. When it comes to fusing both menswear and womenswear, Jil Sander brings glamor and elegance to the runway with simple cuts and shapes. While tailoring can often be considered a formality, playful shapes such as the cloud-shaped mirrors seen on the midi-kilt and textured garments including frill tank tops and a knit dress featuring sequins and feathers galore, give a contemporary take on the 1920s flappers' dress code.
While the overall dress color scheme of the collection tends to lean towards neutral and lighter tones like white, peach, cream, lilac and pale blue, a bold color palette of magenta, gold, silver and acid green contrast the delicate knitwear, overpainted suede and light wools that ready the wearer for the upcoming spring season. When it came to deciding whether or not to show menswear and womenswear together, the designers said in a statement that it was practically a no-brainer,
"To show womenswear and menswear together came naturally. It definitively mirrors what we have done since we started designing our Jil Sander and what we consider one of the foundations of our work together. We always search for a balance among elements that are usually considered opposites, formally, culturally, or emotionally. We think it is important to merge the archetypes of womenswear and menswear, to fuse delicate and functional, day and night, gowns and workwear. It creates the space of freedom and feels intimate and modern to us personally."
Take a scroll above at the Jil Sander SS23 Milan Fashion Week runway collection.
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